First, there's an awesome quote at the end of the story:
"I remember consulting for a group home, and there was a little girl there I always thought of as an air plant."
I know a couple of air plant-kids myself, but I didn't realize actual professionals would say such things.
Anyway, my new hero is Paul Rudnick. Behold! (the complete NY Times story is here, but I've lifted the two best bits.)
A display of hard-to-find Wonka candy bars reminded him of his all-time favorite book of childhood, Roald Dahl’s “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.”“That was my ‘Bell Jar,’ my ‘To the Lighthouse,’ ” he said. “I thought that if it had been real they would just give me the factory — they wouldn’t even bother with a contest and those other kids.”
Anyone who compares Charlie and the Chocolate Factory to To the Lighthouse is my kind of guy. I must admit I was convinced of the same thing--that if Wonka's place had really existed, he would just will the factory to his best customer, which would've been me. I imprinted heavily on some of the candies in that book--Whipple-Scrumptious Fudge-Mallow Delights, the sweet sugar grass, the square candies that look round, the egg that kept dissolving until you had a tiny, pink, sugary bluebird sitting on the tip of your tongue, the entire ship made of boiled sweet--and CatCF was the first book I ever wrote a book report on (December of 2nd grade, for those who might be curious). It led me to learn that 'boiled sweet' is just hard candy, which was disappointing, but "whipple-scrumptious fudge-mallow" is genius. If Roald Dahl was still alive, I would put him to work writing menus.
I would love to chat with Rudnick about his seeming reverse snobbery on the chocolate front. While there are some brands or varieties I prefer to others, I could never say, "oh, I don't like fancy candy." Now, I love Reese's Cups and Fifth Avenues as much--OK, far more--than the next girl, but the Peanut Five Star Bar is a wonder of the candy universe. And it's $3.80, plus shipping, for a piece of candy just a couple ounces heavier than the 79 cent Reese's Peanut Butter Tree I ate for dinner last night. Could I ever bring myself to categorically reject one or the other? No.
And as I think about it, I'm coming up with a seemingly endless list of fancy (Fran's salted caramels) and cheap (100 grand), of obscure (Cadbury Curly Wurly) and ubiquitous (Milky Way), of gummi (Haribo Roulette) and chocolatey (Claudio Corallo laranja) and crunchy (Butter Rum LifeSavers) and creamy (See's pineapple truffle) and sugary (seafoam) and nutty (See's P-Nut Crunch) and chewy (Flyer Gold Plane No. 8) and chewy + nutty (Peanut Chews) and sour (Sour Patch cherries) and repulsive-yet-beloved (Sparkle Jerry Cherry Tart 'n' Tangy Taffy) and local (Dana Cree's Nutter Butters at Poppy) and...whatever is the opposite of local in this sense (Swedish Fish). And of course, the classic Brown and Haley Mountain bars, which actually had a long-standing ad campaign where people mistook them for little mounds of poo.
The writer and his story's subject visit Dylan's Candy Bar in New York. Rudnick's comment is funny; when I visited a few years back, I remember mainly that I complained--for a long time--about the lack of selection.